What is Yarn Count?

According to the definition given by the Textile Institute, a Count is a number indicating the mass per unit length or the length per unit mass of yarn.

Some systems and units are used for expressing the yarn number. The yarn count system depends on the material used for preparing the yarn and the locality where the yarn has been manufactured. 

Systems of yarn count

Systems of yarn count can be grouped into the following categories:

1. Indirect system:

According to the indirect count system, the yarn count is the number of units of length per unit of weight of yarn. In this case, the higher the yarn count, the finer is the yarn. This indirect count system is generally used for cotton, woolen, worsted, linen, etc. The common formula for the indirect yarn count system is given below:

Yarn count = Length of sample yarn (L) × unit of weight(w)/Unit of length (l) ×Weight of sample yarn(W)

Units of length and weight in the indirect count system are listed below table:

Advantages of the indirect count system:

• The amount of twist in the yarn and cloth setting is directly proportional to the square root of the yarn count. It can be easily calculated by this system.
• In the indirect count system, the weight of the fabric can be calculated easily.

The disadvantage of the indirect count system:

• In this system, the count of yarn does not express the size directly. A coarser or bulky yarn will have a smaller count number than a finer or less bulky yarn.
• It is difficult to calculate the resultant yarn count of folded yarn.

2. Direct system:

In this system, the count of the yarn is the number of units of weights per unit length of yarn. This system is used for silk , jute, etc. The common formula for direct yarn count system is given below:

Yarn count=Weight of the sample yarn (W)×unit of length(l)Length of sample yarn(L)×unit of weight(w)

Units of length and weight in the direct count system are listed below table:

Advantages of the direct count system:

• The count directly expresses the size of the yarn. A coarser yarn will have a higher number and finer yarn will have a lower number.
• The resultant count of the folded yarn can be easily calculated even if the component threads of different counts.

The disadvantage of the direct count system:

• In this system, it is difficult to calculate the weight of the fabric.
• Calculation of the amount of twist in the yarn and the cloth setting is comparatively difficult to calculate in this system.

3. Universal system:

The Tex system of yarn numbering is called a universal system. This is a direct system of yarn numbering and is introduced by the International Standards Organisation (ISO) and various organizations of textile scientists, technologists, and manufacturers. This system is applicable to yarns made from natural as well as synthetic fibers and hence useful for replacing the several different systems that are being used in the different sectors of the textile industry all over the world.

Tex system can be used from the fiber to yarn stage. The fineness of fiber can be expressed in terms of millitex, i.e., the weight of fiber in mg in one km length, and the fineness of cord, ropes, and twines, etc. are expressed in terms of kilotex, i.e., the weight of the material in kg in one km length.

Some important conversion 

Exerciser:

Exercise-1: A lea of cotton yarn weighing 40 grains. Calculate its English count.

Solution:

Here,

Length of yarn = one lea= 120 yds.

Weight of yarn= 40 grains

Unit length= 840 yds

Unit weight = 1 Ibs.

We know,

Yarn count=Legnth of sample yarn(L)×unit of weight(w)Unit of length(l)×Weight of sample yarn(W)

= 120×700084040    [ 1 Ibs=7000 grains]

= 25 s

Exercise-2: If 120 yds. The cotton yarn weight is 25 grains. Find the count of the yarn.

Solution:

Here,

Length of yarn = one lea= 120 yds.

Weight of yarn= 25 grains

Unit length= 840 yds

Unit weight = 1 Ibs.

We know,

Yarn count=Legnth of sample yarn(L)×unit of weight(w)Unit of length(l)×Weight of sample yarn(W)

= 120×7000840×25    [ 1 Ibs=7000 grains]

= 40 s

Exercise-3: If 120 yds. The cotton yarn weight is 2 gm. Find the  English cotton count of the yarn.

Solution:

Here,

Length of yarn = one lea= 120 yds.

Weight of yarn= 2 gm

Unit length= 840 yds

Unit weight = 1 Ibs.

We know,

Yarn count=Legnth of sample yarn(L)×unit of weight(w)Unit of length(l)×Weight of sample yarn(W)

= 120×453.6840×2    [ 1 Ibs= 453.6 gm]

= 32.4 s

Exercise-4: 100 metre yarn weight is 1.67 gm. Find the denier count.

Solution:

Here,

Weight of yarn= 1.67 gm

Unit of weight= 1 gm

Length of yarn= 100 metre

Unit of length= 9000 metre

We know,

Yarn count=Weight of the sample yarn (W)×unit of length(l)Length of sample yarn(L)×unit of weight(w)

= 1.6790001001

= 150.3 denier

Exercise-5:  100 yds jute yarn weight is 3 oz. Find the jute yarn count.

Solution:

Here,

Weight of yarn= 3 oz

Unit of weight= 1 Ibs

Length of yarn= 100 yds

Unit of length= 14,400 yds

We know,

Yarn count=Weight of the sample yarn (W)×unit of length(l)Length of sample yarn(L)×unit of weight(w)

= 314,400100×16   [ 1 Ibs= 16 oz]

= 27 Ibs/spindle 

Conclusion:

Count is a numerical value, by which we can express the coarseness or fineness of yarn and also indicate the relation between length and weight of yarn. From this article, we learned different counting systems of yarn. I tried to present simply with exercise. Feel free to ask me if you have any questions about this article. 

Article Author

Kazi Md. Rashedul Islam

B.Sc-in-Textile Engineering (DUET)

Author & Founder: TextileTrainer.com

Email: Textiletrainer@gmail.com

References

• Belal, P. D. (2016). Understanding Textiles for a Merchandiser. Dhaka: L.B Graphics and Printing.
• Karim, E. A. (2010). Textile Calculation. Dhaka: Prime Publications.
• P. Angappan, R. G. (2009). Textile Testing. Tamil Nadu: S.S.M. Institute of Textile Technology.
• R. Rathinamoorthy, R. S. (2018). Apparel Merchandising. Chennai: Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd.
• https://textiletuts.com/yarn-count/
• https://www.slideshare.net/RasminThahaniZ/yarn-testing